Autumn is Apple Time—Secrets to a Great Apple Crisp

Autumn is apple time. And a simple but well-made apple crisp is one of the best and easiest ways I know to show off the goodness of succulent, seasonal apples. (For an easier recipe, microwave baked apples, go here.) Or try my easy apple-blueberry crumble here.

Apple crisp was a stand-by in my mother’s repertoire, and she made a great one. (My recipe is actually an update of hers.) Her secrets, and ones that anybody can borrow, were to use supremely fresh apples and to create a medley by using at least three kinds at once.

This was easy for her, since we actually had a number of different apples growing right in our backyard. Though our apples were not as abundant and beautiful as the ones pictured growing in a nearby apple orchard today, they were all extremely appealing in their own unique way and had absolutely matchless flavor--especially when enjoyed right from the tree. (Which may be why now that I live in the "burbs," instead of on a farm, I still have to visit a pick-your-own orchard every year for that superb taste I remember.)

The apples on our farm were all varieties that had originated in the 19th century. The Smokehouse, the first of our fall crop to ripen, may have been discovered near a smokehouse in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania, in 1837. Information on the Jonathan and Stayman is a bit skimpier. Several sources say the Jonathan was first grown in 1826. the Stayman originated in Kansas about 1875. Our only yellow autumn apple, the Grimes Golden, is said to have developed from seed on Thomas Grimes’ West Virginia farm in 1832.

In the 18th and 19th centuries, there were hundreds of apple varieties, many with interesting stories and colorful names; most were only known in one region of the country. Today, the best place to find a wide variety of apples is at smaller orchards, farm stands, and farmers' markets. I still love all the heritage apples, my family grew; several of my modern favorites are Honey Crisp (shown in the bowl) and Pink Lady.

Tip: Whatever the varieties, always keep apples refrigerated. They look decorative sitting out in a pretty bowl, but will quickly lose thier firm, munchable texture and exquisite taste.

Apple Crisp
Full of cinnamon and brown sugar fragrance and the robust taste of peak-of-season fruit, this homespun, nubby-topped crisp celebrates one of autumn’s most abundant and widely appreciated gifts—the apple.
 
Actually, the dessert spotlights the wonderful variety of apples available now by calling for combining a number of different kinds. Just as my mother did, I like to incorporate at least three varieties, say, bracing Stayman and juicy-sweet Honey Crisp and aromatic Pink Lady. As you will see, almost any blend will round and deepen the apple flavor, lending lovely sweet, tart, mellow, and bold notes all at once.

1/3 cup packed brown sugar
2 1/2 tablespoons all-purpose white flour
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
7 1/2 cups peeled, cored and coarsely sliced tart cooking apples, including at least 3 kinds, such as Stayman, Rome, Granny Smith, Honey Crisp, Golden Delicious, Jonathan, Pink Lady and York
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Topping
3/4 cups all-purpose white flour
2/3 cup rolled oats
2/3 cup packed light brown sugar
1/4 cup unsalted butter, melted
1/4 cup corn oil, canola oil, or other flavorless vegetable oil

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Coat a 7- by 11-inch (or similar 2-quart) flat rectangular baking dish with nonstick spray. In a large bowl, stir together, sugar, flour and cinnamon until blended. Stir in apples and lemon juice. Spread mixture in baking dish.

Bake in middle third of oven for 25 minutes, stirring once or twice. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, briefly mix flour, oats and brown sugar. Add melted butter and oil, stirring until incorporated. Sprinkle the topping evenly over apples. Press down lightly. Return to oven. Bake until well browned and bubbly, 25 to 30 minutes longer. Transfer to wire rack. Let cool to warm before serving. Serve with ice cream, if desired.

Makes 5 to 7 servings.