The Great Baked Apple Bake-Off--Which Apples Make the Best Baked Apples

Does it make a difference which apples you use to prepare baked apples? Are some apples–like some potatoes–better suited for baking whole than others? After conducting informal comparison bake-offs of different varieties over several autumns (shown in the pic below), I’ve concluded that the answer is an unequivocal yes. 

Recently I invited Guy Raz, host of NPR Weekend All Things Considered to come to my kitchen and do a tasting. You can catch the interview and find out what apples Guy liked best here.

Some baked apples come from the oven temptingly colored, nicely shaped, and with full-bodied fruit flavor and aroma. Others emerge looking a bit slumped and faded, but tasting appetizing. Still other kinds emerge bland, limp, or mushy, or all three. While it’s true that very crisp, tangy, intensely flavored apples are the best candidates for baking, not all the varieties in this category actually do perform well. (When you want baked apples in a hurry, try my handy--and yummy Microwave-Baked Apples.

Many published recipes simply call for “baking apples,” or “tart apples,”or “large apples.” Those that are more specific often suggest Granny Smith or Golden Delicious; some mention Rome; and a few suggest McIntosh. So I gave these four a try.

The varieties also baked up differently. The Rome apples held their shape, although the skins tended to split. Their skins also retained some color, but not as much as I expected. The flesh tasted pleasantly tart. The McIntosh apples split apart and completely collapsed. Their flesh softened to the point that an actual applesauce bubbled out the center tops. (No wonder they are often called applesauce apples.)

The Golden Delicious were okay, but not at their best either. Baking seemed to bring out the Granny Smiths’ usual tartness, but not their flavor, and they collapsed completely. And their skins turned olive drab. The Golden Delicious kept some shape, but their handsome yellow skin faded a bit. They tasted good, but I felt that baking muted the tantalizing fruity-sweet flavor that’s the best feature of these apples. Maybe baked apple recipes often call for these two varieties just because they are readily available.

Unimpressed, I set out to find varieties that baked up better. Eventually, I tried over 30 different kinds–carefully labeling each type to keep the contestants straight. I baked them all in the same kind of dishes, with the same recipe, in the same oven. I always tested two of each type at once, to be sure the results were characteristic and not a fluke. Every apple was sampled and informally rated by two or three tasters.

The details are in, and there is not one all-out favorite, but several “best bakers” available this time of year. They are listed below, along with my comments and testing notes. Additionally, I’ve mentioned a number of other varieties that bake up nicely and are well worth trying—some of these may be hard to find.

 In case you don’t see your favorite variety suggested, there are several possible reasons. In general, most of the popular eating apples–Red Delicious, Gala, and Fugi, for example–simply don’t stand up to the heat. A lot of their appeal comes from their mild taste, lack of acidity, and gratifying crispy texture, and baking tends to negate these qualities. Plus, not only the McIntosh but the Cortland and Macoun (both crosses of McIntosh with other apples) also tended to break down when baked whole, although their flavor was pleasant. Of course, if you grew up enjoying these varieties, their applesaucy consistency and homely appearance may strike you as just the way baked apples should be! 

Tip: Cinnamon and sugar can’t save apples that are past their prime. (Once picked, store apples in the coldest part of the refrigerator; experts say 33 degrees F. will keep them at their best.) Even highly recommended kinds won’t come out succulent and full of flavor unless they go in the oven that way. And speaking of the oven, if you prefer your baked apples in a crisp, do check out my favorite apple crisp recipe.

And the best baking apples are:
 

Empire–This cheerful red, sweet-tart apple is a cross between McIntosh and Red Delicious and a far better baker than either of its parents. As you can see from the photo, the skin turns an attractive pinkish-red, and the flesh usually holds together and wins points for its honest, gratifying fruit flavor. 

Honeycrisp–A 1960s Minnesota introduction that’s descended from Macoun, Golden Delicious, and Haralson apples, this large, super-crisp, and sweet yet tangy variety holds its shape fairly well when baked, and its reddish-yellow skin takes on an attractive tawny hue. As the name suggests, the flesh also has a faintly golden color and a memorable sweet and mellow flavor. That's a Honeycrisp in the pic below.

Jonathan–This old favorite doesn’t hold its shape quite as well as some other varieties during baking, but its complex sweet-tart flavor comes through clearly, so it gets a top rating for taste. The reddish skin retains some color, another plus. One drawback for those who prefer their baked apples large is that Jonathans are rarely more than medium-sized, 5 to 7 ounces each.

Rome–Also called Red Rome and Rome Beauty, this bright red apple is recommended primarily because it’s very large (sometimes huge!) and impressive looking, and its zesty-tart flesh maintains its integrity during baking. However, the skin does fade to russet-red and may split; sometimes it also becomes a little tough. The apple flavor is not complex, but quite zesty, which complements the classic brown sugar-cinnamon combo nicely.

Honorable mentions: Cameo, Crispin, Gravenstein, Jonagold, Nittany, Pacific Rose, Paula Red, Green Pippin, Sansa, Stayman, and Summerfield.