Finding the Best Baked Apple--Chapter Two!

Pictures do say a thousand words! Would you want to eat the apple on the top left or top right?

Here are the photos of the apples baked for the recent tasting by me and NPR's Weekend-All Things Considered host, Guy Raz. Guy thought the apple on the top left, the Honeycrisp was the best. I like the one  below it on the left, the Jonathan, a lot, too. It looked and tasted good.

The big loser, top right, was the Granny Smith; it was tart, not very fruity and looked unappetizing to say the least. Guy thought the one underneath it, the McIntosh looked like an enchilada (which it sort of does) but that it tasted good! It was on the tangy side for my taste.

You can catch our comments during the sampling session here.

 Below are pics of the preparation stages--the apples being stuffed and being baked. My classic baked apples recipe is posted on NPR with the interview. Check my recipe archives for my hurry-up microwaved baked apples. My detailed ratings sheet of the apples tested and a link to the recipe is posted here.

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You Made My Day—You Like My Books and Recipes!

It’s a lot more fun being a cookbook author some days than others. When a recipe I’m testing just won’t work out, or my computer suddenly eats my carefully polished prose, it’s not fun at all!

But some weeks, like this one, are both fun and exciting. One reason is I just found out that that my latest book, Kneadlessly Simple, made the 2009 Amazon Cookbooks Top 10 Customer Favorites List. The top entry on the list was Martha Stewart’s cupcake book, so I feel I am in pretty good company!

Along with this honor (which was a huge surprise), I have just gotten several especially memorable e-mails from people who have been enjoying my recipes and took the time to tell me. During the writing/testing phase, I work very hard to be sure my recipes will succeed for every cook. So it is extremely gratifying to hear when my efforts paid off.

Here, with their permission, I’ve quoted several folks whose words really touched me. Two of the e-mails arrived the same day! In case you aren’t familiar with it, the pain d’epice the first writer mentions is a classic French honey-spice bread; it is in Kneadlessly Simple. The second e-mail refers to a story I wrote for the October issue of Eating Well magazine on quick, healthful soup suppers. What could go together better than soup and bread!

Dear Nancy Baggett,
I just tasted the almost-completely-cooled pain d'epice that I made today using your recipe. It is profoundly satisfying; a marvelous combination of tastes, textures and fragrances. I should confess to extreme finickiness on this subject. My mother is French, and pain d'epices were the transcendent treats of my childhood. When we would go to France to visit my grandparents, my grandmother would always get some at the beekeeper's stall in the Fontainebleau market (this, like most bread and pastry, was NOT done at home). Otherwise, the little pre-cut loaves she would send seemed to benefit from weeks in the hold of a ship and then who knows what kind of overheated or freezing freighttrain car on its way to the midwest. Friends bring it back from their trips to France.
     Recently a nearby bakery added a pain d'epice to their repertoire, and my visiting elderly mother exclaimed over its presence. We got some. It was....very good. But as I'm sure you know, that is just not good enough when one is dealing with this sort of intersection of taste & memory. So I started making my way through every recipe I could find. We've had versions that were so dry one had to add a swallow of water to each bite, so defiantly dense that it hurt the jaw to tear off a morsel unless it were sliced paper thin, and a number that smelled great while baking and were just good. Merely Ok. Last summer my son & I worked our way through your All-American Cookie cookbook in an effort to expand our repertoire of regulars. An excellent book! So your name resonated when I saw your pain d'epices recipe recently, and I must say the results are really quite excellent. We will probably try a few more, just for scientific certainty, but I'm going to go put your method on my list of keepers, and will make another loaf to take to my mother. It will make her very happy.


Hello:
I have just made ALL of the soup recipes in Eating Well from October and can't thank you enough. They were fabulous and I love soup as a main meal. I have never written anyone before but I thought you deserved to hear how delicious they all were!

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A Taste of Autumn--Pumpkin Cranberry Quick Bread

Autumn just wouldn’t be autumn without pumpkin and cranberries on the menu at my house. The amazing aroma that fills the air when pumpkin and spices are baked up together is almost reason enough to turn to this fall fruit. (Yes, pumpkins are technically fruits.) And the bright color and zest of fresh cranberries add a memorable, enticing touch to both sweet and savory dishes.

Another reason I enjoy using pumpkin and cranberries is that they seem to symbolize our culinary past. I like the sense that I’m part of a long line of American cooks who has turned these fruits of the season into something special. It’s fun to imagine my foremothers (our forefathers rarely cooked) cleverly capitalizing on winter squash and cranberries to add variety and nutrition to the household diet, especially in the coldest months when larders grew bare. I also like to picture the Pilgrims coming together at a huge table with the neighboring Native Americans to share a meal reminiscent of our modern Thanksgiving dinner.

Lately I've been delving into firsthand historical accounts of what we now call the "first Thanksgiving," and have discovered that my romantic notions don’t square with the facts. I'll be posting a bit on what really happened soon. Hint: The Pilgrim men and about ninety Wampanoag tribesmen probably stood around a fire where they ate mostly venison and other wild game. (No nice tables, linens or fine eating utensils.) The few remaining Pilgrim women who hadn't died from the harsh conditions were not joyous participants, but rather only inconspicuous servers of the menfolk.

For another fine autumn sweet treat, find my pumpkin cookie recipe here.

Pumpkin-Cranberry Quick Bread

This is a hearty, moist, well-flavored quick bread that’s also very easy to make. Not too sweet nor overly rich, it makes a wholesome snack, or can accompany coffee or tea or almost any autumn meal. The recipe yields two substantial loaves, which is a good thing since the first usually disappears right away! Sometimes, I stash the second loaf in the freezer for a Thanksgiving treat that’s completely fuss-free.

Tip: If you have fresh gingerroot on hand it will add a nice kick and extra aroma, but the bread is delicious without it.

4 1/2 cups all-purpose white flour
1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
1 tablespoon ground allspice
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 1/4 teaspoons salt
1 15-ounce can pumpkin (not seasoned pumpkin pie filling)
2 1/2 cups granulated sugar
1 1/2 cups nonfat or low-fat plain (unsweetened) yogurt
2 large eggs
2/3 cup canola oil, corn oil or other flavorless vegetable oil
2 tablespoons peeled minced fresh gingerroot, optional
1 cup dried sweetened cranberries
1 cup fresh or frozen (thawed) cranberries, chopped moderately fine
2 1/2 tablespoons granulated sugar combined with 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon for garnish

Place a rack in the middle third of the oven and preheat to 375 degrees F. Generously coat 2 8- by 4-inch (or slightly larger) loaf pans with nonstick spray.

In a very large bowl, thoroughly stir together the flour, cinnamon, allspice, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. In medium bowl using a fork, beat together the pumpkin,sugar, yogurt, eggs, oil, and dried cranberries until very well blended. Gently stir the yogurt mixture and fresh cranberries into the flour mixture just until thoroughly incorporated but not over-mixed; excess mixing can cause toughening. Immediately turn out the batter into the pans, dividing equally and spreading evenly to the edges. Sprinkle the sugar-cinnamon mixture over the loaves, dividing equally.

Bake on the middle oven rack for 50 to 65 minutes or until well browned on top and a toothpick inserted deep in a center comes out clean. It’s normal for the tops to crack. If the tops begin to brown too rapidly, lower the heat to 350 degrees F. and cover them with foil the last few minutes of baking.

Let the pans stand on a wire rack for 15 minutes. Run a table knife around the pans and under the loaf edge to loosen the loaves and place on wire racks. Cool thoroughly. Keep airtight at room temperature for up to 2 days; or freeze packed airtight in heavy plastic bags for up to 1 month.

Makes 2 medium-sized loaves, 12 to 14 slices each.

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How to Get a Food Writing Job or Assignment

I’ve been writing about food for a long time. I started out freelancing for a local newspaper, the Columbia Flier, back in the day when print media was still mostly thriving, authors typed on typewriters, and the current Internet was only vaguely imagined by the most forward-looking visionaries. Despite the stunning array of changes since then, I’ve been pretty much constantly busy writing food articles and cookbooks ever since.

I’ve been reflecting on this fact because next week I’ll be talking about how to get a food writing job on a panel at the annual Women Chefs’ and Restaurateurs’ National Conference in Washington, DC; find more conference info here. This is a tough topic partly because, as everybody knows, the traditional markets—from newspaper food sections and food magazines to cookbook publishers—are now downsizing and/or disappearing at an accelerating rate.

As a result, one key theme I’ll sound is that it’s vital to think outside the old publishing box. Competition for the scarce print media work, whether freelance or staff, is so fierce that it’s more realistic for all but very experienced job seekers to focus most where the opportunities are still expanding. Which means I plan to dwell a good bit on some of the specific present and possibly emerging paid possibilities I see for creating food-related content for the Internet. I’ll also give some tips on how to get the various sought-after gigs and maybe even how to invent jobs that don’t yet exist.

Since I’m now devising my tips, I’ve noticed that, despite all the dramatic changes, many of the characteristics food/cookbook editors and other food content providers are looking for in freelancers or employees have remained the same for decades. Check out the list I’ve come up with so far by clicking here .

The session I’m participating is offered at 3 pm on Tuesday, Nov. 3, and is called “How To Get A (Food-Related) Job In This Economy.” The other speakers include a corporate chef, event planner, and culinary educator. Here is the resource list I'll be providing to attendees.

Suggested Resource List


Will Write For Food by Dianne Jacob
Good overall intro to various types of food writing. Solid nuts and bolts info on testing and writing up recipes—which is vital to know.

http://www.diannej.com/blog/
Dianne Jacob has a great blog covering all sorts of food writing issues and topics. She also Twitters useful tips.

 http://www.online-writing-jobs.com/jobs/freelance-food-writing-jobs.phpa
Check this to get an idea of what sorts of writing opportunities (not necessarily food)re out there and what they might pay. I’d ask around and/or do some research on the various organizations listed before signing up to work for them.

http://www.writingcareer.com/articles/become_a_freelance_food_writer.php
Some basics on writing about food. The writer makes this easier than it sounds, however.

http://www.freelancewriting.com/newsletters/food-writing-newsletter.php
On-line newsletter/tips from somebody who appears to know.

http://www.essortment.com/career/freelancewritin_smkn.htm
Tips on how to get started writing for food mags. Very practical info for a tough market.


PS--Some folks are apparently optimistic about getting writing jobs: The Columbia School of Journalism applications are up; read about it here.

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What Food Editors Are (Still) Looking For

I'm going to be speaking next week at the Women Chefs' & Restaurateurs Conference in Washington, DC, on how to find food writing jobs now that times are tough and opportunities are dwindling; click here for more information. So, I've started coming up with some tips on what editors (and other content providers) are looking for when they assign work or hire. The list is by no means complete yet, so feel free to comment, ask questions, or add your suggestions.

What Food Editors Are Looking For

Surprisingly, some key basics they want haven't changed in decades:

>It’s called food writing because the work usually requires both food and writing skills. Potential employers want somebody with both experience working with food and communicating in print, often in the form of sample published recipes, stories, columns, blog entries, or reviews. Lacking such evidence, be prepared to produce samples of what you would provide if given the chance.

>Editors and other content providers want someone who understands and can very effectively “speak to” their audience. Try to walk in their readers’shoes. Pitch topics and choose samples that are appropriate and targeted to their readers rather than of general interest. For example, an editor serving an audience of young mothers will want much different ideas/recipes/tone than one serving well-traveled, well-heeled, middle-aged foodies.

 >Editors want an idea person: a fresh perspective; someone who stays current on food trends; sees what the next hot topics are likely to be. If it's an old topic, they want a new slant. Be prepared to repeatedly come up with topics/recipes of interest to the targeted audience.
>They call it a deadline because the only acceptable reason for not delivering the work on time is being dead! Whatever the venue, editors want someone who is completely reliable and who always delivers reasonable quality on time. Demonstrate your reliability at every point and in every way: For example, send your bio or clips exactly as promised or requested and make sure any submissions/e-mails are as error-free as possible.

>Most content providers seek a self-starter. They usually outsource because they are harried and want the work done without much effort or involvement on their part. They hire those who can generate approriate ideas, develop the content, and deliver it with minimal guidance, feedback, or handholding.

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Seeing Red--Seas of Cranberries at Harvest Time

I hate to admit it because it seems so idiotic now. When I first saw the arresting pictures of red seas of cranberries floating on bogs I just assumed that cranberry plants were aquatic. I imagined that, like lily pads, they grew in deep pools of water, and when the berries were ripe, they floated to the surface, ready for harvesting.


Anyone who has ever seen cranberries growing knows this notion was wrong, completely wrong. These native plants don't live in water at all! Farmers simply flood their bogs at harvest time (usually October), then churn through the water with a large rotating reel that loosens the berries from their stems. Pic 2 shows a bog being flooded; the berries haven’t yet been loosened from the plants. The wheel-like churning apparatus near the tractor (look closely!) is ready to do this job.

Once afloat, the berries are corralled by booms (pic 3) and either drawn up conveyor belts into waiting trucks or sucked up with giant hoses. Not only are the plants not aquatic, but they will actually die if the water is not promptly drained off again. And the berries have to be processed into juice or sauce right away, as they will not keep once waterlogged.

 As I learned during a visit to Whitesbog, a historic cranberry farm in the New Jersey Pinelands, where I took my pictures, this method, called wet harvesting, is completely modern and technically complex. Growers use a system of sluices that are opened and closed to efficiently flood and drain tidy rows of bogs in rapid succession. This preserves both the plants and the berries.


The method was introduced in the mid-twentieth century and drastically reduces the amount of labor that used to be required to pick cranberries. Almost all of America’s cranberries are now harvested this way; only the whole, fresh berries destined to be sold in plastic bags each fall are picked using the older “dry” method.

 The extra labor and more careful handling means the fresh berries are pricier of course, but since I love their tang and color in all kinds of baked goods, I don’t mind. Every autumn I stash a few extra bags in the freezer to use the rest of the year. My cranberry-pear muffins with crystallized ginger are a family favorite, especially at Thanksgiving; click here.  Or check my recipe archives for other cranberry treats.

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